Georgia to Damascus, VA 1996

Friday, March 1, 1996
Two days of hiking has taught me that 56 lb's is too much to be carrying on your back, up & down mtns. The bus ride down was a trip. An old bum faked getting sick at the first rest stop and stole a woman's purse and a guy's walkman. I saw him casing out the bus, so I took my bag w/ me. My night at Amicalola Falls Shelter was spent w/ 10 youth offenders, however they were cool, one even brought me my watch after I forgot it in the bathroom. Get a car ride to the top of Amicalola Falls cause the trail is hard, and the mile up Springer Mtn. is a killer. So far I only have some broken skin on the back of my right ankle, and a stubbed rt. big toe which happened during the night at Springer Mtn. Shelter on a piss run. It's now snowing on me, so I'm going to stop for now. Just had dinner, I'm carrying too much food and drink mix. Today's hike was cool. Hawk Mtn. Shelter is packed tonite. Bob & Hope, Connie, Stranger, Campro, Thor and Warren. Tomorrow's hike is 8.5 miles to Gooch Gap Shelter.

Saturday, March 2
Trail Magic! But more on that later. Hard day early. Sassafrass and Justus mtns. kicked my ass. The rest of the trail was ok, but was too tired to really enjoy. However, I was trying to cross under a fallen tree trunk that left about 6' of clearance, when I hit it with my pack. I tried to limbo, but my pack wanted to hit the ground, so there I was on my back, on my pack with my arms & legs in the air, trapped like a turtle. Funning moment. Justus Mtn. was particularly decimated by Hurricane Opal; met GATC maintainers on the way down Justus, and I gave many thanks cause the job they did, to cut a trail thru all the destruction, was superhuman. Ran low on water then found Justus Creek, which was sweet. Later, found a trickle of a stream, which was equally good. Piped spring at the bottom of a sadistic approach trail to Gooch Gap Shelter. If I ever meet the sum bitch . . . Then Trail Magic! Bob, Rob & their wives brought me and Bob Hope, beer, wine, soda, & chips and a party, Yahoo! Nice folks, they took our pictures to see if we make it in the ATN as completing our thru-hike. Bob & Hope are cool people. I am on a parallel course w/ them so far. Would like them for neighbors in the "real" world. Ha! When will I get into trail shape . . . help!

Sunday, March 3
11.3 miles today. Met Easy One, he's got to be at least 60, maybe more; he passed me by. I set up camp at Slaughter Gap. Hung my food bag from bear and other varmints. I seem to be developing my trail legs. Charlie (Bunyon), a 50+ thru-hiker just joined my camp. A lot of day-hikers were out today. I was up at 6:20 and hiking by 7:35. Boy do I smell, luckily tomorrow there will be a shower at Neel's Gap. Haven't gone in a privy, yet, however I've left many cat holes along the way. Today was the first where I pushed myself a little bit, but it wasn't fun. I must get into better shape . . . Pat (a guy)[Shovel] just joined camp.

Monday, March 4
Day off in Neel's Gap, well not quite. Blood Mtn. stood in the way of that. Good hard climb to the top, great views from the top, hard climb down, fell twice. Got to Neel's Gap, showered, laundered, and now relaxing. I don't know what holds me back, but fear. I'm in better shape than some. People are dropping off already. I can see me dropping off too, but I can't see me overdoing it to the point of torture, as I'm seeing this guy now. If this becomes hell, I will leave. I'm looking to do 10.6 miles (tomorrow), and it 'Looks Like Rain'.

Tuesday, March 5
Knees started to hurt on downhills. Took it slow in the afternoon until I saw some young people coming towards me, the pretty little fillies perked me up and helped me maintain a second wind (of course the trail was easier). Did my first singing and hiking today, it was fun as long as the trail cooperated. It rained slightly for the last 20 mins. of my hike and it's still lightly raining here at Low Gap Shelter. It's five o'clock and the shelter is full.

Wednesday, March 6
Hiked thru rain all morning until 11 am, made it to Blue Mtn Shelter at 11:45 and called it a day. The last 2 miles over slippery boulders and rocks killed my knees. Last night thunder & lightning and torrential downpours. I need to stop every hour to rest my knees, tomorrow I will try.

Friday, March 8
Yesterday- rain in the morning. The weather is the story of the last two days. Woke up Thursday w/ rain and started hiking. Rain diminished by 10 am and the sun made an appearance about the time I reached the top of Rocky Mtn (1000 ft climb). By the time I got up to Tray Mtn (1200 ft climb), the weather turned cold and in conjunction w/ the rain-soaked warm ground, a thick fog appeared. I decided to move on to Deep Gap Shelter which was 7.1 miles and it was already 1:45 pm and I had already walked 7.7 miles with two uphill climbs of 1000 ft or more. So off I went into the clouds. The immediate downhill from Tray was relatively easy, but soon the next uphill climb approached, that I didn't really expect. Soon came more downhills. At the Blue Ridge Swag, I heard a jet real close by, so close that I thought that any second I would see the nose of the jet bearing down on me, but that was just my nervousness in being alone in the fog. But was that really the case? I heard birds frolicking near by for most of my hike and about at Sassafrass Gap I noticed two little blue/gray birds (Juntco's) in the trail ahead of me. Then I would get closer to them, then they would fly down the trail a ways. Occasionally, they would disappear into the forest, but when I would get discouraged, these two birds would reappear, and I was very discouraged on my ascent of Kelly Knob (700-800 ft climb). It was getting dark, the climb was hard, and I was mildly hypothermic, and my fingertips on my rt. hand were getting numb. When it seemed that I would never reach the top of this knob, the two little birds reappeared and stayed ahead of me, all the way to Deep Gap Shelter. Two little Trail Angels! It was a bitter cold night which I spent w/ 2 college students and a recent Rutger's grad. I learned that a 0-degree sleeping bag is cold at 10 degrees. Speaking of education, I learned to put my trash bag in w/ my food bag to hang from mice at Blue Mountain Shelter. This morning I hiked 4 miles and hitched a ride to the Blueberry Patch from two kindly old folks in a red pickup. This has been a restful day except that my knee was quite painful after hiking 15.1 miles yesterday (it was .3 miles to the shelter). Still don't rest enough while hiking, but because of weather conditions rather than my own insanity. This has been a rough time, but it is something that is bringing me out of my shell more and more each day. I can't wait for the next adventure.

Sunday, March 10
KNEE, enough said! Rough day yesterday, especially after Bly Gap. Last night cold, cold, Brrr! Decided to take it easy today only did 4.9 miles, am now at Standing Indian Shelter. I am by myself as Pat took a cut off trail to Rainbow Springs, and I think 'H' is camping on top of Standing Indian. Tonight if I don't stay warm, I'll cry. Sleeping with tent & rain fly around my sleeping bag and pad. Weather is supposed to break soon, please! It's very quiet here, can barely hear a stream in the distance. Been thinking about stopping, will at least try for Fontana Dam. I hope I'm not making a mistake staying outdoors in this temp. Oh well.

Monday, March 11
I'm at Carter Gap Shelter after a beautiful day of hiking. The uphill climb to the peak of Standing Indian was worth it. The knee held up, but I only did 7.6 miles. Made a decision today to fuck the schedule and hike for pleasure and take time to smell the roses. If I make it to Katahdin, so what; what matters is that I have fun. I won't hike long distance in constant pain. My knee seems to handle 8 to 10 miles a day ok, so that's what I am going to do. Charlie would be disappointed in me, rising above my German stubbornness. Looking forward to Albert (Mtn) tomorrow.

Tuesday, March 12
What a day, but first, the skunk. Well I was trying to sleep at Carter Gap Shelter, and I heard a rustling noise and it seemed to be moving closer and further away from my head. Now at first I thought that it was a very loud mouse, but of course it wasn't, it was a skunk! When I saw it, it was looking at or was even on my food bag. Who knows, as soon as I saw the white stripe, I covered up quickly back in my mummy sleeping bag and hoped that it would simply go away of it's own accord. Well I might have scared it a little too, cause when I summoned up enough courage to peek out of my bag, the skunk was gone. Earlier I had been reading by candle lite, but I blew it out before going to sleep. Well, I had this idea to light the candle and place it between my head and my food bag. So finally I tried to go back to sleep w/ my nightlite (the candle) burning. Well the skunk comes back and gets near the candle. His or her bushy hair catches on fire, and I smelled it, and I exclaimed, "The skunk is burning!" I was scared that I would be caught up in the flames and be cremated w/ the skunk. Alas, the skunk disappears, and I and the two other guys (Oofus and friend) were hysterical, first with fear, and then with laughter. Well, I think that's enough on the skunk. Good hiking today, I took it some what easy (because it didn't hurt much) until all of the sudden I stepped up a little on my right leg and my knee was shocked w/ a sharp stabbing pain, and then the next step hurt worse . . .

Saturday, March 16
Well the knee is healing; may take a couple extra days to play it safe. What is my hurry, indeed? However, when I decided that I have become a section hiker, instead of a thru-hiker, was before I knew that my knee problem was curable. (I still need some convincing that my knee problem, is not chronic.) I'm still approaching this more like a section hiker: my next goal is to make it to Fontana Dam. Of course all my purist fantasies go by the way side w/ my bypass of Albert. I am more humbled, by the challenge ahead of me and I have more respect for those who have accomplished their goal.

Sunday, March 17
Tomorrow I hike! Hope the knee is up to it. It does feel ok, so who knows? I would like to make it thru the Smokies, but if not, I will survive. I am warily optimistic. I must think more like the tortoise, than the hare. No matter what happens, I have changed, I don't think I can go back to my old life, if that's what you can call it. MY RAT RACE IS AT AN END!

Monday, March 18
Did 2.3 miles today, but am about 4 miles past the shelter I planned on staying at. The cabbie I hired sounded more Scottish than N. Carolinian. Well any way, he took me to Wayah Gap instead of Winding Stair Gap, so I missed Siler Bald and it's shelter. I'm not upset cause I don't plan on completing this thru-hike anymore, so I hiked for an hour & 1/2, and then set up camp. Lost my Pepsi Big Slam bottle today, I hope in the cab, not in the woods. Tomorrow I hope to do a leisurely 7.6 miles, weather permitting. I thought the weather was turning worse that is why I stopped at Wine Spring. I didn't want to be caught on Wayah Bald in the middle of a storm, well there is always tomorrow. I don't want anything, other than to remain open to all things great and small.

Thursday, March 21
BLIZZARD of 96 II, at least for me but this time I was in a tent not behind Bill's window in Linden; wish Bill was here for this one w/ his 4x4. Two days in my tent, thank god for Jane Austen & her "Sense . . ." Let it snow, let it snow, let it snow, let it snow, No! No! Be careful of what you wish, it just might come true, just when you want it the least. Just reread Mon 3/18. Weather permitting, Ha! Actually if I hadn't waited for the rain to end, so my shit wouldn't get wet . . . , I could be stuck deeper in the mtns, still! Mon nite / Tues morning, it rained. Tues morning it changed to snow and I thought the rain was supposed to stop Wed. I thought the snow was freak, cuz it was early morn. I thought that it would change in a little bit, and that there might be a break in between, where I might be able to get going when it was relatively dry. Well, the snow kept on going, like the Energizer Bunny (Yuk! American commercialism). So I read and I meditated while lying down. Boiled water to rehydrate black bean soup w/ chewed up jerky (actually I used my teeth to cut up the jerky). I shitted that all the next day and beyond. Read by flashlite for a couple of hours and then went to sleep. Woke up next morning (Wed) to over a foot of snow and semi-painful diarrhea cramps and an impatient bladder at 6:00 am, so I did the dirty deed and cleaned about a foot & « of snow off of my tent and then crawled back into my sleeping bag. 7:15 am Wed morning my watch alarm goes off and rings it's full 30 seconds. I leisurely pack up to go (I think I was going to go in deeper) and marvel that it's still snowing. Everything's packed, I'm dressed to trek thru snow and all that's left is to breakdown & pack up my tent. So I take off and stuff my rainfly, then I start to break apart my poles, but they are frozen solid, my toes were starting to become painfully cold, so I quickly decide to reassemble my tent and stay another day. Why didn't I think to use one of my many butane lighters? . . . Oh well. So another day of 'Sensibility', meditation, jerky & Pop Tarts. I still had a little voice whispering that going forward was still possible, and all of my remaining dinners required 15 to 20 minutes cooking and I felt that would be risky (carbon monoxide). Meanwhile I dumped four liters of water before I found out about my tent poles were frozen. So tried to conserve H2O, cuz I really would hate to trek to the water source only to find it frozen. It snowed all day Wed, all nite Wed, all early morn Thurs, and I was continually and constantly astonished that it was still snowing. However, divine intervention, or a randomly lucid moment conspired to hint at the using of a lighter to unfreeze my tent poles on Wed and I also decided to backtrack to NC 1310, 2.3 miles and then hitch a ride back to Franklin, NC and that's pretty much how it went. What took me 1:30 to climb to, took me about 2 hours to walk out. Not bad, but my beginning was real shaky. The trail was drifted 2.5 to 3.5 ft. Trees heavily laden w/ snow, bent across the trail. I fell pretty hard during the first .1 mile and then almost hyperextended my bad knee when my rt. foot unknowingly got stuck under a log that was totally covered & camouflaged w/ snow. My new knee brace helped. I fell and took some dangerous slips a few more times, but I never got lost and I luckily found part of the trail where the snow was wind eroded, under a foot deep, so I had some easier walking, at times. Then I found USFS 69 and the wind blew half of the road clean, while the other half had as high as 5 ft drifts; it was an easy gently downward graded road. I wasn't the only one with the squirts that morning. Someone shitted, pissed, wiped, and left all three in the middle of the road, at the end of tire tracks (it was about as far as most 4x4's could go). I finally reached NC 1310 and started to walk the 13-14 back to Franklin. I was picked up and paid $20 for the ride, so here I sit and watch the NCAA Sweet 16. Money sucks. Will try again on Sunday and to make it thru the Smokies some time in April. Don't think I will go further, unless the knee miraculously mutates into a bionic knee.

Friday, March 22
A lot of thru-hikers here at Franklin Motel. Did a lot of walking around town today, 6-7 miles, feel good. Maybe it's the Guinness.

Tuesday, March 26
Groundhog's Day is over! I'm out of Franklin, NC and I'm tenting at Licklog Gap w/ 8 other hikers, some are going south. Did 6.4 miles since noon, and took over an hour off at Wayah Bald. Beginning today, going uphill, I sounded like an old man weezing down each breathe, but after I passed my blizzard campsite, near Wine Spring, the trail eased and there was only a short uphill to Wayah Bald. The view was great, but too many people coming and going. The rest of the walk was mostly downhill. I had camp set up by 4:30. Rain expected tomorrow, I hope to break camp before it starts.

Wednesday, March 27
I did 9.3 miles today, the trail was kind. Only saw one person on the trail today, maybe cuz of the rain. The rain was kind too, cuz it only drizzled on me. Now that I'm at the shelter (Wesser Bald Shelter) it's really raining.

Thursday, March 28
I'm at N.O.C. and am staying the night. Last night stayed w/ Sharon, Bronco (David) a couple, Michael, Larry, Red Iron. Fell 3 times today, but the worst fall was when I put my rt foot the only place I could (there looked to be a boot print there), but the trail collapsed down the side of a tree, my left on the other side. My balls and the tree were on a collision course, but my poles slowed me down enough to shift my weight and I hit the tree w/ my inner thigh, an inch away from my rt. ball. I want to learn how to kayak. This place is cool! White water fun. Met Hippie Bob, Viet Nam Vet. He has his little buddy, Gilligan. I'm a pretty strong hiker, probably too strong for knee, on a day to day basis. Tomorrow is going to be a hard warm up for the climb up into the Smokies. Hope I'm smart enough to take it easy.

Saturday, March 30
I'm camped out on Cheoah Bald tonite, hoping the clouds go away, so I can see my first sunrise. Hippie Bob left the trail yesterday. He started hiking the trail 10 days after removing casts from both feet (they were run over by a forklift). Stayed another day at N.O.C. cause Mojo hung his rain pants over my boots and they got soaked, so another day off the trail. Tried to help both Hippie Bob and Blister Sister (Val?) Cause they were injured hikers. Blister Sister has bad knees, but she said they were feeling better, today. She's skipping to Fontana Dam today, and may skip the Smokies to rest her knees. Hope to see her on the trail again. She's got a head on her shoulders, and she's cute. Mojo is a maniac. 8 miles today, most of it was uphill though graded, but I didn't do it slow. I did the first 7 miles in 4 hrs. (Remember it's almost all uphill). Would like to get to Fontana Dam (town) by noon Monday, so I'm going to try to do 10 to 14 miles tomorrow. So much for (taking it) slow, but I want to get to the post office, and see if the Hostel really has a TV so I can watch the NCAA Finals (I hope it's Kentucky vs. Mississippi St.). Hope the Smokies aren't crowded. Ha! Ha!

Sunday, March 31
14 miles today. I feel ok, however short day tomorrow & maybe day off Tues. Walked all day in the clouds. Two hard climbs today, and a lot more ups than I thought there would be. I willed the rain away today, so I could pack up my tent. I'll have to try it again.

Monday, April 1
Am at Fontana Dam Hostel. I'm tired. Will attempt Smokies on Wed. I need to see the sun again.

Tuesday, April 2
The walking wounded . . . Day off today at Fontana Village. I'm going to be carrying less food than I thought for the Smokies, so that means longer mileage. Sent ahead my repair kit and most of my first-aid kit, so by the time I finish the Smokies, my pack weight will be the lightest yet. I'm not really happy about some of the hikers lately. Inconsiderate. Maybe I'll get an early start tomorrow, and try to make it to the shelter in the Smokies, Mollies Ridge Shelter. We'll see. "The sun is shining, no rain is falling from the heavy sky." If I make it thru the Smokies ok, I'll make it to Damascus, Va., I hope. I've got to mellow out my sarcasm. I saw it reflected by one of the girls that stayed at the hostel last night, and it wasn't a pretty sight. The weather hasn't allowed much rest, but now the weather's good and should be for a little bit, so I hope I can find some peace and quiet, to meditate and ponder nothingness . . . Life is but a dream.

Wednesday, April 3
I walked 17 miles today, 3 miles from Fontana Village to Fontana Dam Shelter, and 14.2 to Russell Field Shelter. Sleeping w/ horse riders tonite. Sunsets are cool! But I'm chilly.

Thursday, April 4
What a day! The last couple of days are beyond description for me now. Cold weather's coming. I'm thinking about hiding out in Gatlinburg, TN for Easter and wait for warmer weather.

Saturday, April 6
My first day in the Smokies (Wed 4/3), I was pumped. I also was upset over Boom dying and mom saying that I never liked her. That's why I kept on hiking, to forget it. There weren't any clear views (except from fire tower on Shuckstack), and I wasn't really tired. The horse riders from Indiana were all right, they built a fire outside and inside the shelter, and drank whiskey. I didn't join in, I read "The Celestine Prophesy." Is coincidence really meant to happen? A change of conscienceness? All I know is that I'm unhappy my life as I left it before the trail. The trail won't last forever, so I have to find a way . . . Mike (Home Brew) & Bill (Quiet [Man]) just joined me here in Gatlinburg, TN; now back to our show . . . To find a way to live happily ever after. To sleep, perchance to dream. Will, finding a purpose to fill my life, or, giving up and leading a wonderful conformist life, be my lot? Well, when you put it like that, I guess I must find a purpose, a reason to live. I really don't think that there is any hope for the human race, sad isn't it? Power, the need to have power over other's, whether it's power over one, ten, or all; this power-greed shall be the downfall of our species. Is there a way to get this 'prophesy' across to others? I wonder if we, as a race, are worthy of 'salvation'? If I can 'save' us, should I? My messianic delusions aside, I would like to help . . . Enough bullshit for now, so my first day in the Smokies was a long hiking day, as I hiked from Fontana Village at 7:30 am, and got to Russell Field Shelter around 4:30 pm. The sunset from Russell Field (.1 miles above shelter) was very colorful and the temp dropped with the sun. The next day I woke up and packed up, and then bullshitted w/ one of the horse guys, and pretty much procrastinated. I yogied a Coke . . .

Sunday, April 7
So when I finally got started hiking on Thur (4/4), oops, I forgot about the deer I saw. I was going to the bathroom, ha! Ha! I was going to take a shit in the woods, when I saw the deer. The deer was small, I was no more than 10 feet away from it, and then I said to myself that I never have my camera ready when I need it. So I told the deer to stay put (literally), and I went back to the shelter to get my camera. Well, the deer moved, but moved closer to the shelter. So I snapped off 3 pictures of it, and I got within 6 feet of it. Now that I've finished my digression, I will attempt to write in a more linear fashion. So I finally got started that morning (around 9 am), I was tired. Yesterday's 17 miles were a breeze, yesterday, but I was dog tired this day. When I reached the top of Little Bald, around 40 minutes later, I felt I had to stop. This was the best view since the fire tower on Shuckstack. I tried to meditate, but the bugs, and the continual procession of hikers going by, stopped that idea. So after a .5 hour w/ the view, I got going to Spence Field Shelter to get water. My legs had no energy this day. Next stop, Rocky Top, & my first view of Clingman's. It was windy, so I went downhill, 15 feet, and sat down to lunch and a buzz. I've hiked 3.7 miles, and by the time I leave Rocky Top, it's 12:15 pm. Lousy hiking being rewarded w/ gorgeous views. Climbing up Thunder Head was arduous, and the rest of the hike to Derrick Knob Shelter took forever. By the time I arrived, the shelter was full, but another hiker felt clusterphobic, and decided to tent. So I got my spot in the shelter. Some sang songs, some read, some tried to sleep. I did all three, at different times, of course. Next morning (Fri 4/5), it was cold and the trees were covered with ice. I stayed in my sleeping bag for a .5 hour before I felt motivated enough to get up. The hiking this morning was easier than the day previous, but when I stopped at Siler Bald Shelter around 10:30 am, I met Slider, Scarecrow, Quiet Man, and Home Brew; they were staying there for their second night. That's when I decided to stay. I had only planned to go another 1.7 miles any way, so why not stay there. Around noon, the fog/clouds broke up, and I told everyone that I was going to head up to the top of Siler's Bald to catch the view, and Scarecrow asked me to wait up, but while he was getting his boots on, the clouds returned. I was pissed. 15 minutes later, the clouds broke up again and I grabbed my camera and ran up Silers Bald. Half way up, I met an old guy who told me if the clouds break up, I could see Clingmans from the top of the bald, and even as he was speaking, I saw Clingmans' coming free of clouds, so I told the guy thanks, and continued my mad dash to the top of the bald. The view from the top was great. Clingmans was to the east, and the clouds covered everything to the north. I was looking down on the clouds. The lower portion of Clingmans was wrapped by the clouds, and the ridge between Clingmans and Silers Bald was the southern boundary of this weather front. After taking pictures, I sat down, and watched the clouds hit this ridge and dissipate, for over an hour. When I finally went back to the shelter, I tried to communicate to the others what I had seen, but failed miserably. I also found out that the old guy was Morgan, the ridge runner for the AT in the Smokies, and I yogied some Tang (from him). He told us that the weather was supposed to turn cold, and a trail that overlooks the west off the side of Silers Bald. So up Silers' I went again, this time w/ Slider, Home Brew, Mojo, & Scarecrow. The view was awe-inspiring, but didn't have a camera. Eventually, (we) went back to the shelter, made & ate dinner. Near sunset, Home Brew, Stretch, Quiet Man, and I headed up to see the sun set. It was like sitting at the edge of the Abyss. To the north, you looked down on the sea of clouds, to the west (was) a cloud fall in front of Mt. Leconte in TN. Not as colorful a sunset (as at Russell Field), because of high atmospheric clouds, but an eerily beautiful sight none-the-less. So what started out as a dreary day, turned into ane of the best days on the trail. My first day in the Smokies, 12.4 miles (plus 4.5 miles outside the Smokies). The second day, I did 8.8 miles, (and) the third, 5.5 miles. The third night, we had a rip-roaring fire because of Slider, Mojo, & Home Brew. Home Brew found the good wood. Mojo cut it up and Slider was the pyro-tech. Woke up the next morning (Sat 4/6), to find a couple of inches of snow on the ground, but the snow was wet, so the wind couldn't blow it around. I was now convinced to take a couple of days off in Gatlinburg, TN. So I headed off to Clingmans in the snow & clouds. Not as hard a climb as I thought it was going to be, but I was booking. After I passed Slider, & Scarecrow, my right foot got caught in a root, and I took a hard head first dive at the ground. Slider came running up to help, but I was fine, and got up under my own power. Got up to Clingmans, it was cloudy, cold. Found a road (the one that goes up to Clingmans) while coming down from Mt. Love, and hitched a ride from two old ladies who had just dropped off 7 maintainers on top of Clingmans, and they took me right to Willows Hotel, where I am now.

Tuesday, April 9
My plan for tomorrow (assuming my traveler's checks arrive today) is to get an early start and hitch a ride to Clingmans'. I hope this is the last snow/bitter cold of my trip. I can still conceivably complete the AT if this is my last long stay in a town, and I continue to be frugal. I enjoy being on the trail more than my town stops, anyway, so if Mother Nature would just cooperate . . .

Thursday, April 11
I'm at Mt. Collins Shelter. I couldn't get to Clingmans Dome until the afternoon, so I decided to only do 4 « miles. Tomorrow I may try to do 15 miles so I can have a short mileage day when I go over Charlies Bunion and the Sawteeth. {The last sentence is wrong, because from Mt. Collins, Charlies Bunion is only 8 miles away.} Clingmans was packed w/ tourists, but that did make it a pretty easy hitch. It took me two rides to get to Clingmans. First, a British dude took me to Newfound Gap. It was quite tempting to yellow blaze around 5.5 miles, but I really wanted to see off Clingmans on a nice day. I hope mom buys a cool camera.

Friday, April 12
I think I have this hiking thing down. Climbing Mt. Kephardt, then taking the side trail further to the Jump Off. Then close to sunset, climbing to the top of Charlies Bunion was just the thing to do. So what if I only did 8 miles today. I met trail angel, Ronald Underwood (White Pine) at Newfound Gap, one righteous dude. I do need to do more miles and less towns, however, I am not going to sweat it out, without having a good time, whether by myself like today, or like Silers Bald. My forearms were covered in mini-blisters (filled w/ water). I think they were caused by last Fri (sunburn a week ago). Were they there for a week, who knows? Ate 1/4 of a fudge cake given to me by hikers doing 1/2 the AT Smokies trail, N->S (30miles). Should be able to do mucho miles in the rain tomorrow.

Monday, April 15
The Smokies, Part II. Clingmans Dome to Davenport Gap. Clingmans Dome was a disappointment, w/ all the tourists dominating the scene. It was like Gatlinburg puked up on Clingmans. I exaggerate (boy I can't spell, can I?)[but I did spell it right], and Mt. Collins was crowded. In the middle of the night (11pm) I got up to take a piss. Next morning, I got up (to take another piss, of course), [and] when I saw that there were people sleeping outside, without a tent, very close to where I took my piss last night, later on that day at Icewater Spring Shelter, I met Andy. And when I found out that he was the person closest to me when I took my late-night piss, I asked, "Did I piss on you?" Andy was shocked by the boldness of the question, but laughed in spite of himself. It was also at Icewater that I met Gutsy. My antithesis. She is the most driven hiker I have yet to come across. Doing 20, 30 mile days in order to keep up with some insane schedule, that would kill John Henry. But earlier in the afternoon, I slack packed from Icewater to Mt. Kephardt and the Jump Off. Great views, demanding trail, even without my pack. Fell hard on my right arm near Jump Off. Then I met Gutsy and Andy, and had dinner. Around 6:30 pm, I set off for Charlies Bunion.

Tuesday, April 16
Sunset at Charlies Bunion was most excellent. I got back at dark, but was kept up till 10 pm by Boy Scouts watching TV. I was waken up by same said Boy Scouts, jumping down from the top bunks and trying to pack up as quickly and as noisily as possible. I had a talk w/ one of them. I said, "One day, if you continue not to respect other hikers, you'll find some one bigger than you, who gets pissed off easily, and he'll beat your ass right into the fuckin' ground." Did I mention that there was a beautiful sunrise that morn, Sat 4/13. Stopped that morning at Charlies Bunion again, but the clouds started building in the south, and a .5 hour after after I left Charlies Bunion, it was cloudy. It cleared up for about 15 minutes when I got to Bradley's View, where I stopped, and got my rain gear together. When the sun went, so did I. Drizzled the rest of the day, did my 12.6 miles and got to Tri-Corner Knob Shelter, where I met up w/ Andy and met a guy in his fifties w/ his "niece," a 30 year old blond into meditating. It poured all night and was cloudy/foggy in the morning of 4/14 Sun. I was packed first and left expecting a long cloudy walk . . ., but when I got to this clearing on the the side of Mt. Guyot, I thought I saw a faint horizon. I must be tripping, but sure enough, the longer I looked the more I saw. As I was taking a picture, it clouded back up. Within a minute, it was clearing up, and for good. I thanked whoever I'm always thanking for all the cool shit that's been happening to me on this trip. Sunday was a cool day, took a side trip to Mt. Cammerer. There were too many people there, a mini-Clingmans Dome, but way cool views. Stayed at the Davenport Gap Shelter w/ Bandit and Andy. All they talked about was sex and food. Was I horny! Went to Mountain Momma's. What a dump! That was Mon (4/15). Food sucked. People that worked there were Country; Country slow, Country rude, Rednecks. Today (my god, I'm actually writing about a day on the day that's the present. Does that make sense?) . . . Where was I? Enough on Mt. Momma's except to say I rode on the end of the tail gate of the pick up truck that shuttled us back to the trail. 10 pm start, (trail) was relatively easy until I stopped for lunch. Steep climb with dead legs. Stopped at Ground Hog Creek Shelter around 3:30 pm, made dinner, took on water, and met 6 or seven Deadhead hikers (The Goof Troop). Then I hiked to the Hawks' Roost, set up camp then climbed to summit of Harmon Den Mountain for sunset, unless I get real cold, which I'm starting to. Don't know how far I'll try tomorrow. I cross that bridge . . . Boy, it's windy. Got to take a piss! Oh, I smoked a cigar.

Wednesday, April 17
Hard days hiking today. Just remembered to mention the two cardinals I saw yesterday at Mountain Mommas'. (It was) the only consolation in having to wait forever to get a shuttle back to the trail. Not much excitement today, spent (the) morning break at Max Patch, lunched at Roaring Fork Shelter, mid-afternoon break at Bluff Mountain's summit and I am camped out on a bald field off a blue-blazed trail. Walked approx. 16.3 miles today, probably could have done 20, but who cares. Have a quick 7.1 miles to do, to get to Hot Springs, tomorrow. Can't wait to play with my new camera.

Friday, April 19
So much for leaving the scene of the accident. Oh well, I am hiking tomorrow, even if it's only the 4.5 miles to the pond. I really prefer being on the trail. Why do I stay in these towns? Damascus will be my next town stay over. I will only resupply at other towns. The 7 miles I hiked to get to Hot Springs were tough miles. Around 2.5 to 3 miles before, the thought crossed my mind that the trail should be going downhill from here, and immediately I realized my arrogance, and tried to recant my evil thoughts, but what's done, can't be undone and I was doomed to have at least one more uphill, and of course, there was. Got drunk yesterday at the Inn at Hot Springs. Nice place. Tonite, party at Ramsey Apartments. Hope to have fun! I feel melancholy, who gives a shit? I hope for my fellow humans that I'm just totally fuckin paranoid.

Saturday, April 20
I'm fattening my self up for my hike today. Possibility of rain and maybe tornados, Cool! I think by the time I stop hiking this trail, I'll have just about had experienced every type of weather known to the AT. Will try to do 4.2 leisurely miles. I feel so full of peace, and I am so full of shit, that it is totally unbelievable. One last treat before hitting the trail. Later . . . It's raining in Hot Springs and I hope (still) to get out of here this afternoon . . . I'm like so trashed, I hope I find some place to sleep tonite. Thunder just happened. I think I'm staying in Hot Springs tonite. I know I'm drunk, but what the fuck, shit happens.

Monday, April 22
2 hard days out of Hot Springs. I'm surprised I can write. Yesterday I was hung-over and did 11 miles. Took my time and drank my wine. And then I paid for it again on the trail. Then today did 15+, mostly uphill. I am exhausted. And the bugs! They suck. Incense seems to ease their presence, need to find more. Tomorrow promises to be the toughest day yet, especially after Flint Mountain Shelter. Hope it rains, that usually makes tough miles easier.

Tuesday, April 23
Right now I'm sitting at Flint Mountain Shelter hiding out from the rain, and my recalcitrant legs (you know what I mean). No pain, just lack of gumption. My last day at Hot Springs really zapped me dry of energy. But I don't seem to be the only person that it's hit. Other hikers seem de-energized also. I'm going to try hiking at least a couple more miles, if it ceases raining before 4 pm, if not, then I'm a resident. I need to replenish my strength. I'm also trying out a new way to strap on sleeping bag. My gear seems to be wearing out. The lumbar plastic piece on my pack is cracked, the toes on my boots are wearing out. Seems like I'm hitting a wall, like long distance runners, and instead of getting high on it, I'm suddenly at a dead stop. I'm so over-dramatic, hopefully I will feel better in the morning. Enough wallowing for now.

Wednesday, April 24
Nice leisurely day, today. A butterfly teased me with sitting still too long, so I tried to photograph it (at Devil's Fork Gap), but just as I zoomed in, it flew away. I was too greedy and tried to get that one step closer. So I followed and it was majestically spread for a Butterfly Playboy, but just as I closed in for the kill, it folded up it's wings, and wouldn't reopen them until it flew away for good. Life is much like that butterfly. I, later, saw a black snake sunning itself along the trail, near a barn. It seemed dead, barely moving when I first touched it with one of my hiking sticks, but, eventually, it didn't appreciate the attention, and slithered away. Oh wow! I didn't mention that after it rained last night, the temp dropped. One of the hikers in the morning said it was 25 degrees. My energy is slowly returning, but I only did 8 « miles today. Tomorrow I'll try at least 10, maybe try to reach a restaurant. Need to carry more food, so I'll be stronger. I'm pretty much done as a thru-hiker, but I'm still a long distance section hiker of the AT, and I'll continue until the fun or money runs out. I won't worry about short miles, only about having a good time.

Thursday, April 25
Where do I begin to tell the story . . . Pissed off at two inconsiderate hikers today. Last ones to sleep at night (9:30 pm), and cooking breakfast at 6:30 inside the shelter, rattling pots and pans. I was so pissed that I packed up without having breakfast (that's how pissed off I was), but somehow they (Annie and the Salesman) got packed up before me and I had to pass them where the shelter trail met the AT. "Excuse me," I said in my most false sweet voice. Then 'Willie Loman' replied something like, "Getting an early start on the rest." I said, "Uh huh," and then threw it into overdrive, & flew up a steep ascent. I never saw them again, but my anger stayed with me until I had lunch at the Country Club. Expensive, but worth it. Staying tonite at Bald Mountain Shelter, very windy. Hope it doesn't rain until after I start hiking tomorrow.

Friday, April 26
Windy last night. Heavy rain early this morning (5:30). It stopped around 9 am, and I was on my way by 10:15 am. Hiked 'bout 10 « miles today. Just saw one of the "Riders On The Storm" (Psycho). The sky was so blue, and the trail skirted much water, branches. The plant life around these waters was so green. It was special. I can't wait for warm nights, so I can watch the stars. I never watch the heavens rise and set. I is lonely for female companionship, and not just sex, but relating w/ females. I'm going to be friendlier. I am too aloof. I am not going to start any more sentences that start with 'I'. Aye!

Monday, April 29
I'm in Erwin, TN, and who knows when I'm leaving. Let's start at the very beginning. It's a very good place to start . . . Power hiked from my camp at last shelter before town (No Business Knob Shelter), about 6 miles. Upon arriving at NGC Hostel, I first met the Goof Troop (Wharf Rat, Crazy Fingers, Puff, The Riders On The Storm [Rat, Turtle, and Psycho], and Skylark) camped out just off the trail, so they wouldn't have to pay for camping. Then I went to the hostel, and saw Mojo's flutes on a bunk, and I couldn't believe that he had fallen back to me. I resupplied in Erwin that day, and then hitched back to drink, dance, & kareoke at The Rendezvous. Twisted my knee dancing, and met a woman named Dawn. Well we took a liking to each other, but even drunk I've still got my moral balance, and I didn't go home with her. Next morning, was I hung over, but as the day progressed, I felt better in small increments. Watched Mojo build flutes most of the day, and I finished reading "The Celestine Prophesy", and Green Leaf asked if anyone wanted to go canoeing & when no one wanted to, I decided, what the fuck, let's go canoeing. We were unstable right from the beginning. Lost my imitation Birky sandals, and Green Leaf lost his nalgene bottle. But we got back in the canoe (without life vests), and chased down our missing items. Then we hit the first set of rapids, and when I say hit the rapids, I mean we hit the rapids; lost my sandals for good, and a 2 liter bottle of Pepsi. Green Leaf lost his paddle. I tried to slow down the boat with my feet, so as to avoid the next, and bigger set of rapids. Well, we made it to shore about 20 feet above the rapids, but my feet felt like chopped meat. We first tried to walk the canoe up the shore, so we could cross the river above the first set of rapids, but we ran out of shore line, so we decided to canoe (row w/ one paddle) across to an island that was totally ankle-breaking rocky, and then paddle upstream, so that we could return the canoe where we got it. All went according to this scenario (only with much more difficulty) until I was paddling us up the river, and we got caught in a current that was sucking us out into the middle of the river. So I, deliberately, dumped the canoe again, before we got caught in an even stronger current. The water was cold, but I had pretty much become accustomed to it from all my previous times in the river. Green Leaf and I finally returned the canoe after sunset, and explained the missing paddle. Erwin, TN, the town I broke my middle toe on my right foot (well I actually hope that it only severely jammed). It is a lovely shade of purple. I hope to make it back to the trail tomorrow. Thanks. I stayed up half the night, playing with fires, in the fire pit at USA Rafting, and at Wharf Rat's camp near the trail. Watched the moon set. It was such a gorgeous night that I wanted it to last forever.

Wednesday, May 1
I'm leaving Erwin, yea!

Thursday, May 2
Didn't leave Erwin yesterday. Went rafting with the Goof Troop. Smoked cigarettes. Too tired to write. Must write about raft adventure and sunset at Beauty Spot.

Friday, May 3
Wednesday (5/1), I packed up to leave the Nolichucky camp, but was able to yogi a raft ride, but the Goof Troop took too long to get ready, and the manager of USA Raft wanted at least an hour's work for our ride, so we moved a few rocks and built a new rock jetty, which was wrong (The manager wanted us to reinforce the old one). Cool, what work we did was wrong. Rafting is cool, but Class 3 rapids are a little lame. The other raft w/ Psycho, Rat, & Wharf Rat dumped while surfing a rapid. The guide dumped first, and then the raft slam dunked the rest. Our boat w/ me, Turtle, Puff, & Crazy Fingers went to the rescue. The rest of rafting was rather uneventful, except that our guide, Jason, dumped while trying to turn the boat. Me & Crazy Fingers threw him in the raft. Steve (?), the head guide took us to this waterfall slide. You slide to the waterfall, and then you fall 15' into a freezing cold pool of water. What a rush! I went twice. Camped with the Goof Troop, and watched the video of the day that Steve (?) took. Left Thur. (5/2) morning to hike, the 1st mile was mellow, but the rest of the day was hard, but camping on the Beauty Spot was cool. Took a nap after dinner, when Steve (?) came up on his bike to return Psycho's wallet, that he left in Steve's (?) car. Cool move! Played some 'Bee, and watched sunset. Best looking sunset so far. Sunrise, today, Friday (5/4), was also excellent. Today's hiking was drudgery. The Goof Troop's dog Stone-Ya' killed a wood chuck in a prodigious battle of 5 to 10 minutes, according to Puff. Puff skinned and gutted it. The dog ate the torso, and some of the Goof Troop were cooking up the legs to eat, gross! It's after 9 pm, past my bedtime. Goodnight.

Sunday, May 5
Cinco de Mayo. Yiha! Well no one ate the wood chuck, except Stone-Ya'. No balls. Yesterday hiked two miles to Clyde Smith Shelter, and decided to go no further. Dog tired. However, I set up my tent, took a nap, and decided to do a night hike. When I got to Little Rock Knob, I stopped to see the city lights. At Hughes Gap, I got a bit spooked, it was 1:00 am, there was cars driving on this dinky country road. And as I was climbing Beartown Mountain, I kept looking back, thinking someone was following. Paranoid delusions. Oh, did I mention that it was really windy on Little Rock Knob? Well, the wind was blowing in the clouds. And as I was still climbing Beartown when the clouds totally dominated the sky. Beartown went on forever. There must have been five or six false summits. By the time I reached the top, the town lights in the distance were getting hazy, so when I reached Ash Gap, I hurriedly set up my tent, and got in. My whole night hike was punctuated by the music on the local NPR radio station, Blues Before Sunrise. What an excellent program. Was woken up by hikers, near my tent, explaining to others' that I had night hiked. Boy, was I pissed. Started hiking up Roan at about 11 am, and had lunch on top. Now I'm at Carver Gap, trying to muster up the energy to hike 3 more miles to Stan Murray Shelter . . . I'm at Stan Murray (Roan Highlands) Shelter by myself. I'm tired, hope to get good night's sleep, and wake up tomorrow to do a mellow 10 miles . . . I may have company.

Wednesday, May 8
Mon night at Apple House Shelter was a mini-Damascus. Tents all over the place. Hikers drunk, and having fun. Rain stay away mostly, except for some drizzle. Rain during the night, and most of the morning, yesterday. Camp near stream and trail last night. More rain today probably. Going to Laurel Fork Shelter, so I can play in Laurel Falls. Sun night at Stan Murray, I was listening to my radio w/ headphones. I was at peace, but suddenly I heard, or rather felt, my world shatter. Scarecrow & (Rudy) Coaltrain decided to hike thru thunderstorm w/ hail, and arrived at 10 pm. Boy, was I pissed! Oh well, shit happens. I did give them hell for it. I hope that the next time they think how their actions affect other hikers. We made up at mini-Damascus.

Thursday, May 9
I'm coming to the end of this journey. Trail Days will be my last hurrah for this long strange trip. I would like to find my home, where I belong. I had thought that I could find a clue on the trail, but what I have found is that the trail is just like any other place, except that it tends to be prettier than what is man-made. I do want to complete the trail (in sections), but what I want most I can't define. My search for truth, wisdom, and purpose seems impossible. What do I want for the rest of my life? Love, peace, joy, & fun. Now all I need is a way to obtain all of the above, and I haven't got a clue. Religion, philosophy, politics, psychology, and mysticism don't help me, but rather lead me down a treacherous path. How do you find the unfindable? My time on the trail has taught me that I can, and do make good solid decisions. I can depend on myself, however, I still find it hard to trust others, and I don't know whether that's good or bad. All I know is that I'm missing something. Love! Love! Love! Boy, am I corny!

Friday, May 24
Back home in NJ, will try to piece together the last week on the trail, & then Trail Days:
Wednesday, May 8?  Hiked thru Laurel Gorge, beautiful. Saw my first Mountain Laurel in bloom just before Pond Mt. Wilderness Area. Koonford Bridge was a marvel. Blue-blazed around Pond Flats to get to Braemor Castle Hostel, and a shower. I backed out of an opportunity to go splunking. I was feeling unadventurous, probably because my time on the trail was rapidly drawing to a close, and didn't want to take any chances of missing hiking to Damascus.
Thursday, May 9?  Took a day off, the Goof Troop made it back at 3 am from splunking, then they camped outside the cave to do it again that night (minus Turtle because of clusterphobia). Quiet day for me to save energy for my last 40 some odd miles.
Friday, May 10?  The trail around Watauga Lake is stupid, up & down, and around. TEHC sucks, and so does the first climb after Watauga Dam. The view was great on the rocks behind Vandereventer Shelter, rather uneventful day.
Saturday, May 11?  Was thinking about a 26 mile day, and had it started raining early, I just may have. Did the first 8 miles to Double Spring Shelter in no time, and I finally found a shelter w/out a register, so left mine there. Around 1:30 pm, it finally started raining w/ thunder. Near the top of McQueen Knob, it started to pour, and seeing the sign, McQueen Knob kicked in a memory of the emergency shelter nearby, so I declared an emergency, and stayed there until the storm let up. This pretty much made my decision to stay at Abingdon Gap Shelter, and spent one more night on the trail. After dinner, I took a little hike north. I was feeling gassy, but one fart felt wet, so I headed back toward the shelter to grab my TP & baby wipes. I quickly tried to find a spot to shit, but as I tried to get my shorts off, the flood gates let loose. I shit (diarrhea) all over myself, and my underpants and shorts. Luckily my t-shirt covered my naughty bits, so after I cleaned up (thanks to my baby wipes), I headed back to the shelter, and put on long pants on. I had some big Ziplocks, so I just bagged up my shit-covered clothes, and relaxed in the corner of the shelter, actually I was hiding. I just didn't want to be socialable (and I thought any unwarranted motion might reopen the flood gates). I sort of met Sunspirit this night. She was on her last leg of a 40 mile day. But I finally fell asleep.
Sun 5/12?  Easy 10 mile hike to Damascus, done in 3 hrs. Set up camp, and took a shower at The Place. While I was drying off, I thought I heard Rat talking. There was no way that he hiked that fast . . .

Friday, June 14
Sunday, May 12 - 16?  . . . and passed me without me seeing him. Well he didn't, and neither had Crazy Fingers, nor Puff. Rat hurt his leg splunking, so he, and Crazy Fingers, and Puff yellow-blazed to Damascus. It is now a month since I left the trail, and my week in Damascus is just a drunken blur. I haven't drank piss-beer, in such quantities since college. Our camp along Beaver Dam Creek was 'Wasteland'. The inhabitants were me, the Goof Troop & Stone-Ya', Ibus, Cassidy & Hop-a-long, Matt, plus many others', like Home Brew, Quiet Man, Skylark . . .
Friday, May 17?  A cool drum circle, dancing, and drinking. I barely drank this day, or for the rest of Trail Days.
Saturday, May 18?  For the Trail Days parade, I filled up at least 75 water balloons, and waited along the parade route, so I could bombard the hikers in the parade. After I got off about 5 balloons. A large group came at me, and stole my balloons, and proceeded to throw them at me. Oh, what a tangled web we weave . . . The folks at Gregory fixed my back pack for me, and now I have an almost totally brand new pack.
Sunday, May 19?  Trail Days were pretty much over. By the end of the day, there were very few of this years hikers left. Home Brew was still around, because he had a batch of brew to keg, and mail ahead on Monday.
Monday, May 20?  After saying good-bye to Home Brew, Quiet Man, Skylark, and Ibus, and mailing a package for Crazy Fingers, I hitched to Abingdon to catch a bus back north. I wept on the bus for the first 2 hours. The ride took forever, seemingly longer than the ride to Georgia. I walked from Port Authority to Penn Station in NYC, what a culture shock. I wanted, and still want to be back on the trail. I'll never be the same again!

Kurtis Kirsch.
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons License.