West Virginia/Northern Virginia 1998

Saturday, April 18, 1998—Louden Heights.
It’s been awhile. After leaving Anthony’s Nose, and I went to Fort Montgomery for the night. On April 1, I walked to the Bear Mountain Inn and caught the Short Lines bus to New York City.  Stayed at Bill’s and added a new hard drive and even more RAM to my computer. Left New Jersey on Monday, April 12, but I was too drunk to deal with traveling, plus I needed to do some shit in the city, so I finally got to Shopsins for breakfast which I've been dreaming about for a long time on the trail. I was in heaven. Didn't leave New York till 11:40 AM and every train I was on was late. I was trying to get to Washington DC mostly on local trains. I didn’t get the D. C. until 9:30 PM. Every hotel I called said they had no vacancy, so I decided to hang out on the Mall for the night. It was real comfortable, even during the ten minutes it rained. Watching dawn break from in front of the Lincoln Memorial was awesome too. Wednesday, my train to Harpers Ferry didn’t leave until 4:45 PM, so I saw the movie "Titanic." Having extremely low expectations, actually kind of liked it. Spent Wednesday night to Friday morning in Maryland, camped in a small clearing off the trail near Maryland Heights, and finish reading the book, “Smithsonian.” Friday morning, I crossed over the Potomac River to West Virginia and had breakfast across from the train station. Then went to the Outfitter, where I met the Coodie Queen, who sold me a new rain jacket and let me stash my pack while I went to Charlestown to do my laundry. Stopped at the ATC Office to get my picture taken by Laurie. She also gave me my 2000 miler application. Stayed at the Hilltop House last night, and got real drunk after getting poured on while walking up to it. Sent my send ahead box to Bill with a postcard attached, and hope he thinks it’s funny.  I’m not too hung-over today but I’m taking it easy, ‘cause I’m so fat I must be close to 200lbs.

Monday, April 20—Bear’s Den Hostel.
Nice place! Great hiking so far from Harpers Ferry. Spent two nights at David Lester Shelter with a lunatic but I medicated him anyway. Always liked playing with fire. Spent Sunday listening to tunes and talking with Spooky Boy Junior, and reading a Star Trek book. Rained all day. This morning was mostly overcast, but for a narrow clear orange strip near the horizon. Caught the last glimpse of the sun before hiding behind clouds on the way to the privy to shit. Picked up Howard on the radio, so I stayed at the shelter till 10:00 AM. Spooky Boy Junior took my picture just before I left. Stopped to have lunch at the Blackburn Center. No one was there. Got real sad when I saw a downed flowering tree. It was like a dying princess on her deathbed. Life and death are inseparable. And today would indeed be a good day to die. Spent 4:20 on 4/20 at Crescent Rock. What a beautiful place to celebrate. Hard hiking after 420 though. A lot of little ups and downs that were fairly rocky for long stretches. Got to the hostel, got ice cream, and they went to watch sunset, eat ice cream, and celebrate 420 with my Pacific coast brothers and sisters. I’m going to be high for a week! After sunset, I pigged out and showered when guess who shows up at 9:30 PM, yup, Spooky Boy Junior. Gonna try to get an early start in the morning. A ‘95er gave me an apple and an orange like substance. Spring is here, and the magic is back, and I don’t mean the New York Mets, ‘cause as we all know baseball is dead!

Wednesday, April 22—Dick’s Dome Shelter.
Yesterday was hard, but I took it easy, so it was a good day. Met my first northbounder, started February 15. Saw 2 deer after leaving Bear’s Den. I stopped as they start to run off, but then they stopped. Got the camera out, and they started to sniff me out and moved closer. How cool! Forgot to say that I got locked out of Bear’s Den this morning at 6:30 AM when I went out to have a cigarette. Waited till 8:00 AM to get in. Went to the lookout, fog covered the Shenandoah River. And me with no camera. Swept the front door area, and fixed a swinging chair while I was locked out. Ate ice cream for breakfast. Spent yesterday night alone at Rod Hollow Shelter, what a dump, but a good spring. Barely got Howard on the radio this morning but I still didn’t get going until 9:45 AM. Went to the Blue Ridge Restaurant on U.S. 50 for lunch. They banished my pack outside. Much easier hiking after U.S. 50, but there were signs of the ice storms with lots of downed branches yet the trail was clear. Someone did a great job! Towards the end of the day’s hike, I entered this small gap where bushes grew intertwined, a thicket of bushes and small trees, including dogwoods. I was expecting Dick’s Dome to be bigger, but it is only five for six person shelter. A better day than what was forecast, but still it was somewhat cloudy. Intermittent rain for tomorrow and temps only in the fifties.

Thursday, April 23—Jim and Molly Denton Shelter.
Got a late start today, listening to Howard. Two guys were ending their days hike just as I was starting out at about 11:30 AM. The time is a good guess ‘cause someone or something like a pack rat stole my watch in my sleep. Eight chocolate covered espresso beans today before hiking and after a slow start uphill I flew to Manassas Gap Shelter. Drizzled a bit today while I was there and a little more as I neared V. A. 55, but otherwise a nice day if a bit cloudy. Took 638 Linden and the Monterray store. Closer to a mile and .5 of a mile. Ate 2 sandwiches and drank 2 liters of Pepsi. Almost attacked on the way back to the trail by a big ass rottweiler, but I jumped over a wooden fence in the nick of time. Close call. Called Karen from the store and she still not living at home. She was planning on going out on the town was some friends. This is a nice shelter, but the water ain't turned on yet. Looking forward to tomorrow. I’m almost in the Shenandoah's. I love spring!

Tuesday, May 5—Tom Floyd Wayside.
On 4/24, had an easy hike to 522. Met two trail maintainers a half mile from the road, building a small bridge over the stream. I was the first hiker to cross it. Took 25 minutes the hitch into town. The Quality Inn turn me awake as I had no credit card. Stayed at a real dump instead. Did laundry and went to the movies and saw “As Good As It Gets.” Took a cab to the trail on Saturday and hiked up here stop for the day and had my last cigarette just before bed. Sunday morning I was sick. Physical withdrawal from cigarettes sucks! So I tucked my tail between my legs and went back to town. I was a waste case and a glutton for ten days. I didn't hike ‘cause I guess I really don’t wanna finish the AT, to boil it down in a nutshell. Now I kind of got to push it through the Shenandoah's is to get to Trail Days in time. Decided on my way up the second uphill south from 522 to stop again at Tom Floyd, ‘cause my knee felt funky. I’ve got some decisions to make soon!

Thursday, May 7—Gravel Springs Hut.
Spent last night with two hikers, Wrongfoot and ‘Shroom. Cool dudes. Wrongfoot is hiking for CP. He received three or four cell phone calls between 7 and 8:00 PM. Got up at 6:00 AM and left by 8:00 AM and hiked .7 or .8 miles. Then sat and listened to Howard. Sunny, but very hazy this morning, until I left at about eleven, then it became total a cloudy. Met a wandering Brit near Compton Peak.  He’s staying here with me tonight. Started to rain about 1:00 PM, so I hiked almost continuously to this hut.

Saturday, May 9—Skyland.
Yesterday was rainy in the morning, and I was barely able to pick up Howard, so I didn’t get going till 11:45 AM. Rain had basically stopped and there are patches of clearing. Mount Marshall Overlook was cool, but it started drizzling. At Elkwallow Wayside, the sun made an appearance through the drizzle, which finally slacked off. The last two and a half days I've been hiking in my stretch boxer shorts and my rain jacket that was totally open up front. I left Elkwallow just as it started to rain, but then it stopped and the sun got through. It seemed that the sun was strongest when I was struggling uphill. Finally got to Pass Mountain Hut somewhere around 6:30/7:00 PM. The Brit and two northbounders were already there. My thermarest it is falling apart on the inside, and if I blow it up too much, it makes a crackling noise. The older northbounder was continually coughing like he had consumption, and everybody was farting up a storm. I had to try to hold in my laughter. After I got the air pressure right in my pad, and as I started to drift off, a mouse trap slammed shut. The old coot caught himself a mouse. The other northbounder had the mice by him the whole night long. I only saw the dead one in the morning.  It was cold, and windy, and foggy, and rainy today. Started at 7:30 AM. Stopped at Bird Nest # 3 for a dry break, and stopped again at Pinnacle Picnic Area bathroom for shit and a smoke break. Got to Skyland at 12:45 PM, and I’m having lunch here now.

Saturday, May 9—Rock Spring Gap.
Had three beers at the Tap Room at Skyland. Got me drunk. Got rained on for ten minutes about a mile away from here. Two deer, mom and daughter, let a couple of thru-hikers touch them.

Tuesday, May 12—Pinefield Hut.
Couldn’t find Big Meadows Sunday morning, but something turned on so why backtracked. Called mom, sis, and Omi for Mother’s Day. Ate lunch with Magaroni, cool dude. Saw my first ranger in the Shenandoah’s. Nice enough, but rigid. When to Wayside after the fog lifted. Rain, drizzle, and fog, oh my! Came up lame after about three miles. Hurt. Pain. So I took a real slow. Vince was there Bearfence Mountain Hut. Monday, I didn’t hike. Listened to Howard. Got a lecture from a ranger why the permits aren’t the waste of time, but he was nice enough though. Read, rested, and meditated, oh my! Shelter was crowded but not quite full. Left this morning by 8:30 AM, in the rain. Stopped at the bathroom at Lewis Mountain Campground for water. Stopped at Pocosin Cabin porch for my first break. Next up, South River Picnic Grounds bathroom. My next stop was a half mile past U.S. 33, along the side of the trail on a log, ‘cause the rain finally stopped. Stopped at Hightop Hut around to 2:00 PM, and then left at 2:50 PM and was on my way to a near 20 mile day, with side trails included it was exactly 20 miles. Got here at 6:30 PM, now it is almost 9:00 PM. Shelter is near full. I’m not totally exhausted, and my knee did OK.

Friday, May 15—Staunton Greyhound Station.
Wednesday, it was hard for me to hike, but I took my time. Stocked up with some soda after a long climb up Loft Mountain. Snacked with deers all around me, even saw some bucks with their horns just budding. Hung out at Doyle River Overlook for over an hour. Met Salty ‘94 and bullshitted a bit. I didn’t break again till I was at Black Rock Hut. Met Mr. Clean and Lorax. Five people in the shelter and we all meditated. We built a fire which cleared out the bugs. What a long day. Oh, I forgot to mention the weather. Cloudy in the morning, but it was a beautiful partly cloudy day. I passed two northbounders, who wished the sun would popped up some more, but I just said to them, “It ain’t raining!” and then I headed on my way. Yesterday, I was on the trail just before 7:00 AM. Did ten miles before 11:00 AM, when I stop for 45 minutes and Saw Mill Run Overlook. I was having the kind of hard time hiking but I didn’t let that stop me. Coming out of Jarman Gap and then ascending Calf mountain was torture compared to the gentle grade of the park but on I went. Met a thru-hiker and his ride at Beagle Gap, and I yogied a ride down to Rockfish Gap. Called a taxi from the HoJo’s and stayed at the Comfort Inn. Watched the last Seinfeld episode, and thought it kinda sucked. So now I’m waiting for a bus to Abingdon and Trail Days.  Ole Blue Eyes, dead!

Thursday, May 21—Campsite north of Lambert’s Meadow Shelter.
Hard nine miles today, 11:00 AM to 5:00 PM.  Finally recovered from Trail Days.  Drank more on Saturday and Sunday than the previous six months combined.  PUKED! Three years in a row, but this was caused by moonshine.  It was great to see everyone.  I was worried about Quietman.  He doesn’t seem happy.  Brew’s brew it was excellent, if too short lived.  Skylark slept in the main fire pit Saturday morning.  The swamp was back this year, and my tent was right next to it, at the entrance of Wasteland.  Puff, and Steve, and Wharf Rat were a bit subdued, but they are getting older.  Even Warfie’s friend Stacy showed up.  Rat and Psycho were no shows.  Got a ride from Skylark to Daleville/Troutville.  Got dropped off at Budget and stayed three nights ‘cause of the heat and the effects of Trail Days.  Today, there was a good breeze for most of the day.  Good views, and a few northbounders.  Hoping to make it to the Homeplace tomorrow.

Saturday, May 23—Campsite on old AT, about a mile south of Route 311.
Only made it to Campbell Shelter yesterday, but I had a great day. Had Tinker Cliffs all to myself for a couple of hours, and except for the climb up to the cliffs, the hiking was pretty easy. A soda greeted me who at the shelter courtesy of the Habitual Hiker and the Umbrella Lady. This morning I awoke to deafening thunder, and then it started to pour. I finished reading “Men In Black,” which I picked up at Lambert Meadow Shelter yesterday, when I stopped to shit and sign the register of Ranger Smith and Pocahontas. The sun came out, so I started to pack up slowly. Then the sun disappeared, but no more rain. Easier to get up MacAfee than I thought. No view just clouds, very peaceful. Then came the crowds. I took off toward the Homeplace. Took the fire road for last two and a half miles. Met Fanny Pack ’96 at the parking lot. We ate together at the Homeplace, and he said he'd drive me to Waynesboro tomorrow. Trail Magic deluxe! Speaking of which, while packing up the Umbrella Lady showed up, nice lady. She gave me a Coke and some Little Debbie’s. My stomach bothered me when I had my pack on and I couldn't eat as much as I really wanted to at the Homeplace, however I am totally content. Rain tomorrow, more penance for yellow-blazing this section this last winter. I’m so glad I’m making this up, shit works out sometimes. I’m so lucky to be living this journey. I wish everyone could enjoy the peace and love that I have while I’ve lived on the trail. 

Friday, May 29—Paul C. Wolf Shelter.
So last Sunday, May 24, I woke up to thunder and lightning and rain. Pretty heavy downpour. It stopped long enough for me to pack up my tent and get on the trail, before it started pouring again. Met “The Priest” ’96 at the first road crossing and “South Paw” ’95 GA->WV at the second. Took the first blue blaze to Route 311 and parking lot where South Paw showed up and drove me to the general store nearby, where Fanny Pack was picking me up. He had picked up four northbounders, and drove them to the Homeplace before picking me up. Fanny Pack drove us all to Daleville where we stayed at the Econolodge.  Should-a-known and Roy G. Biv and Sightseerer and Landscape were Fanny Packs guests. He paid for both of their rooms and then split a room with me which I paid for half. After breakfast on Memorial Day, Fanny Pack and I slacked our way up to Dragons Tooth. I had a go real slow so Fanny Pack could keep up with me. We were up there for an hour or so.  I almost climbed to the top of the highest point Dragons Tooth, but I stopped about 5ft. short ‘cause of high anxiety. After we dropped off everybody’s packs at Route 311 and said our goodbyes, Fanny Pack drove me to Waynesboro. We arrived after dark and shared a room at the Comfort Inn, where I stayed until Thursday morning because of rain. Shared a cab with a northbounder to Rockfish Gap, and had lunch at HoJo’s, then I stashed my pack in the woods and day hiked to Beagle Gap to make up for the 5.5 miles I yellow blazed just before trail days. Stayed last night at the Skyline Parkway Motel, which is a bit of a dump. Nice sunrise this morning, right outside of my front door to the room. Ate breakfast at HoJo’s, and hit the trail just before noon. There were no good rest stops, so I just hiked till I arrived here. Went to the swimming hole on the old road that’s almost a bushwhacked, and went in up to my waist, and splashed water on the rest of me.

Sunday, May 31—Near Maupin Field*.
Yesterday, I said goodbye to the two section hikers I named “Suddenly Susans.” The younger one had the handshake of an arm wrestler. I didn't get going till late, 9:30 AM. Hot, humid, and I had no energy. Two day hikers actually passed me on the way to Humpback Rocks, how humiliating! No, I didn’t tell them that I smoked. Near the top of the climb to Humpback Rocks trail, the rocks were wet and muddy, and then me and the fast day hikers got trapped behind a girl with some sort of ankle brace. She seemed to want everyone to wait behind her while she whimpered and bitched her way up the trail, but I asked if we can go past, but before I got an answer from her the day hikers said thanks and then blew on by her with me drafting right behind them. The rocks were a tourist haven but I stuck around to eat. Passed around 35 boy scouts on Humpback after the rocks, and then a large group of ROTC. Don’t any paramilitary groups know about the ten hiker per group limit?! Some of the boy scouts were screaming from the top of their lungs on top of Humpback Rocks. Enough kvetching. When I got to Dripping Rocks Parking Area, I knew I wasn’t going to make it to this place near Maupin Field*, so it was just a matter of where to camp. Fish and his buddy showed up and told me that the group of ROTC were staying at Cedar Cliffs, so that made my decision easy, and I camped about 100yds. north of the Blue Ridge Parkway just off of the AT. Got a great night’s sleep. This morning I packed up, and was brushing my teeth at the parking area, when the ROTC invaded.  Some of them went right to the top of the water source to clean themselves off.  I politely told them not to do that.  I quickly left when I ran into their leaders, and I again was polite in telling them about group size and about not bathing in the water source.  They thanked me, as a way to blow me off, and a hiking I went.  I like my six mile a day pace.  I got to Three Ridge Overlook which had no view and reassured a mother that had just dropped off her daughter so she can hike to the Katahdin and was rewarded with a Pepsi.  Easy hike today, was at Maupin and by 11:30 AM, where I’m met Swiss Miss, a hiker that I met between Tinker Cliffs and MacAfee's Knob last week, and then again in Daleville, when I stayed at the Econolodge with Fanny Pack.  I figure to slackpack the last miles I have left to hike in VA either tomorrow or Tuesday.

Friday, June 5—From a Greyhound bus.
Near Maupin Field* was a great stop, and I so glad I went. I got to throw Frisbee with Swiss Miss and Beorn. Beorn is such a pitiful tragedy. Purely unliked by everyone, including himself. Saw Sister Smiles and her dog Skye at the bridge over the Tye as I ended my slackpack of my last miles of VA. She looked great and happy, but she turned me down to get high. I do slowdown hikers. Just 53 miles to go! I’m a lunatic and I know it!

* - "Near Maupin Field" is my literary device to show my general location during my last week on the trail in Northern VA.  Where my exact location was, the person that took me in asked that I not mention on the internet.

Kurtis Kirsch.
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