Maryland/Pennsylvania 1998

Friday, January 30, 1998—Crampton Gap Shelter.
Well, it's been awhile, hasn't it?  On Tuesday 1/20, I had a nice walk through the snow.  The long uphill was pretty easy, at least easier than I thought it was gonna be.  Loved Cold Mountain, though that day it should have been Cold Wind & Snow Mountain.  Made it to Hog Camp Gap pretty quick, and had lunch there.  After lunch, I really didn't have much hiking left in me.  Made it to Salt Log Gap, and set up camp.  Didn't make dinner, ate the next days breakfast instead.  Wednesday 1/21 morning, I was dead.  Ate that day's lunch, and headed to Seely Wentworth Shelter.  5 and change miles later, I arrived, and cooked up the day's before dinner.  I still lacked energy.  Then came the climb to Spy Rock on an old woods road, covered in snow, with lots of loose round rocks underneath.  I was even more dead, and I was still a ways away from the Priest Shelter.  But eventually I made it, but I had less than nothing left.  Thursday 1/22, got up, packed up, and headed to VA 52 in Tyro, VA, hitched to the grocery store, called up a cab from Waynesboro to pick me up for $60.  Stayed at the Comfort Inn at the corporate rate till Tuesday 1/27, when I took the Greyhound to DC.  Stayed at a dump called the Braxton Hotel, and then headed to a bar I knew near the Capitol for Guinness and dinner.  (Notice how I skipped talking about the Super Bowl?  Broncos suck anyway)  The next day, Wednesday 1/28, took Amtrak to Harper's Ferry.  A young woman accused an Indian man of molestation, so we waited for the cops to come and arrest the guy, take the woman's statement, and just plain bullshit with each other for over an hour.  Doubled the length of the trip, at the very least.  I arrived after dark, and walked up to the Hilltop House Hotel.  The bed was way too soft, and screwed up my back.  Thursday 1/29, I had a lot of shit to do.  Stopped off at the ATC office, met Laurie, real nice.  Didn't let her take my picture and told her I'd be back to hike south to Tyro, but taking my picture might jinx it.  Took a bus to Charles Town for laundry & Groceries.  Back at Harpers Ferry, I took a day hike to Maryland Heights Cliffs for sunset.  On the way back, I saw and heard a shitload of deer.  This morning the restaurant at the Hilltop House was closed, so I went to the PO, then the ATC office for Coleman & to say so long.  The C & O Canal Path is a hell of a lot easier than the Delaware & Raritan Canal Path, but was hard on my feet.  Got really windy at Weverton Cliff, but nice view.  Today was pretty easy, but I'm still a bit sore.

Sunday, February 1—Devil's Racecourse Shelter.
Yesterday was great!  Lunch at the South Hill Inn was excellent.  3 Porters and a Kaluha & Coffee, and I was wacked!  Good food too!  First climb sucked, being fat, bloated, & drunk.  Next stop, Dogpatch Tavern.  3 Sam Adam Stouts, and a black bra hanging behind the bar later, the sun set, and I headed to Pine Knob Shelter.  The shelter itself was nearly packed with a couple of tents set up around it.  There was a gigantic fire in the pit, biggest I saw on the AT yet.  Two thru-hikers from 1990, with some friends.  They had lots of booze and some kind.  I refused the booze.  Today was a beautiful day snow and ice, rock, some good views, and a body that absolutely hated me.  The pain wasn't that bad, but I do hurt a bit more than I should.  Tomorrow, resupply at Cascade, MD.

Tuesday, February 3—Rocky Mountain Shelter.
Yesterday morning, I took off from hiking.  Still felt shitty, but once I started hiking, I got into a groove, especially after High Rocks.  Wonder why?  ;-)  The other reason I didn't hike this morning was that I picked up Howard Stern from Harrisburg.  Passed 2 day hikers after the downhill from High Rocks.  Blew them by and left them to eat my dust.  At Pen Mar, I headed to Cascade, MD, a bit confusing.  The store was closed, but the deadhead that picked me up without having my thumb out that drove me down to town, drove me a half mile mile to a gas station/convenience store.  Decent place to resupply.  Had to walk back up to Pen Mar, and soon I crossed the Mason Dixon Line.  I've finally hiked in every trail state.  Big Deal!  Was racing darkness to get to Deer Lick Run Shelter.  Made it before 6 PM.  Had a hard time getting to sleep last night.  Didn't get much except between 4-8 am.  Didn't get started till after 10 am.  Gray day.  Radio said rain, changing to snow tonight.  So far no rain, and it's almost sunset, but it is definitely cold enough to snow now.  Radio is calling for a foot.  Glad I've been planning to hitch to Gettysburg.  Might be there a couple of days.

Sunday, February 8—Birch Run Shelter.
On Wednesday, February 4, I made it to Route 30 just as the weather turned bad. The snow stopped me from getting a ride into Gettysburg, though I did try hitching for about an hour, but ended up heading towards Fayetteville and stopped at Hinicle’s Market for some chocolate milk and some pie. While I was consuming my breakfast outside, under the overhang of the roof, I was offered a ride to the Rite Spot motel. I stayed there for two nights, and then took a cab to Chambersburg to stay two more nights at the Hampton Inn. Nice place, new, with friendly people working there. As I was leaving this morning, a female hotel employee came outside, as I was getting into the cab, to offer some leftovers of their continental breakfast. Got to Quarry Gap Shelter in good shape, but after that icy snow made hiking a bit harder. Could have done more miles today, but I decided to do more with an earlier start tomorrow, then on to Boiling Springs by Tuesday.

Monday, February 9—Tag Run Shelter.
My feet hurt, especially the ball of my left foot. Got up to 50° today, an almost 30° swing from earlier this morning. Two days, no clouds, blue sky and snowing, icy, muddy streaming trail. This morning the snow was so hard that I could walk on top of it without breaking through. Took an hour break after hiking six miles without one, at Tom’s Run Shelter. Got to Pine Grove Furnace State Park by noon, and stayed there for almost an hour. Watched a crazy woodpecker for a while after high noon. I was hiking strong until I took a break at the Pole steeple trail junction, but no side trips today. I was pretty sluggish after that. Got here near 420. Seventeen miles today and I feel it.

Sunday, February 15—Darlington Shelter.
On Tuesday, February 10, I took my time to get to Boiling Springs, and picked up my new stick at the PO. It’s been redesigned but the only thing they didn’t redesign was the broken part of my old stick so I just switched out the broken piece.  Met Ishmael at the Boiling Springs ATC office, and he offered me a place to stay for the night. He had built his own shelter in his backyard. Took me hiking around his neighborhood, some of which is the old AT.  I left the next day, and had an easy flat walk to U.S. 11, where I stayed at the Appalachian Trail Inn till this morning. Easy hike today, but I’m fat. Tomorrow Duncannon.

Friday, February 20—Clarks Ferry Shelter.
Monday’s hike was harder than I thought it was going to be, but I took it slow, especially descending into Duncannon. The first real stretch of PA rocks, but it wasn’t that bad. Hit the laundry first thing, but of course the change machine didn’t work. Went to the drugstore to get some. Took a more direct route to routes 322 & 22 than the AT roadwalk. Feet were aching bad, and my knee wasn’t great either. Went to a Truckstop motel, and stayed till today. Rain, rain, rain! Ridge-walk to here was hard today. Took about two hours to do four miles. Drizzled the whole way. Another short day today, then I’m gonna to push it up a bit to get to the Delaware Water Gap in ten days.  We’ll see.

Saturday, February 21—Peters Mountain Shelter.
Shit my pants, fuck! Actually not that bad, but I did have to clean my underwear. Today was nice and easy. Crossed paths twice with a beautiful woman. Dreamy. Dreading tomorrow, it’s a long hike to Rausch Gap. Thank the sun for its heat. Thank the wind for its breeze. Thank the woods for its beauty. Thank the mountains for its majesty. They are not a God or god’s. They’re all we have, so be thankful!

Monday, February 23—501 Shelter.
Yesterday, I broke a promise to myself to never do another 20+ mile hike in one day. Chocolate-covered espresso beans. Need I say more. It was a real good day though. Easy hiking, and the sun finally broke out by 1:30. Cool old cemetery in Rausch Gap, called one of the photographs turns out. Made to the Bleu Blaze hostel by 4:15 PM, and was driven into town by Dick Tobias. Just grabbed food and soda for the night. Woke up feeling burned out, but I got the urge to move on when I almost had a chunk of my ass chewed by the Tobias’s dog. Hiked at an even pace to William Penn Shelter. The morning snow/rain didn’t materialize, but I still got there earlier than expected. Started snowing/freezing rain on my way here, but I didn’t get wet, but the rocks were. Did the 4.6 miles in an hour and 25 minutes with the last mile, or so, being rocky, wet, and up and down. If I make it to the Eagles Nest Shelter tomorrow, I’ll have done 49.7 miles in three days. 35.5 as a two day total is my biggest ever. Sometimes you feel like a nut, sometimes you don’t. Cold rain and snow, a windy to boot. Glad I am in an enclosed shelter for the night.

Wednesday, February 25—Eagles Nest Shelter.
Yesterday I didn’t go hiking. Snow was blowing sideways in the morning and late afternoon, but midday was almost nice, so I hiked to lookout just south of Route 501, and then made a snow elf near the shelter. Good day all in all. Today I didn't hiking till around 10:00 AM because of Howard Stern having a kickass show. Today was hard hiking over snow covered rocks, and a trail relocation that added more than the tenth of a mile than the new data book says the trail has changed in the past year. After crossing Route 183, I crossed a snowmobile trail that goes past some antennas, so I bushwhacked to hike it instead of the AT. My first attempt to try to bushwhack back to the AT failed and I fell face first twice. Then I found a blue-blaze trail (Eagle Nest Trail) which took me to the AT 2 miles before the shelter, but of course the AT then crossed the snowmobile trail about 0.2 from the shelter. Oh well, it was fun anyway. That’s why I need maps. Tomorrow, Port Clinton.

Thursday, March 5—Port Clinton Shelter.
Last Thursday, all that was on my mind was getting to Port Clinton and taking a day off or going back to New Jersey for a couple days. The hotel was closed for renovations and one at a bus left in four hours, so I went to 3 C’s diner for lunch, and then caught the bus in front of the for Peanut Shop. It was headed to Philadelphia, so instead of changing buses at Reading to go to New York City, which was my original plan, I went to Philly and took SEPTA and New Jersey transit to Linden. Stayed at Bill’s till yesterday. Trailways screwed me by telling me the wrong time for my bus back, so I had the stayed in Philly last night. Not that bad, and found a bar with Guinness on tap, and got to watch a new two hour Voyager episode. Caught the bus early this morning, and arrived in   Port Clinton around 12:30 PM. Gonna have breakfast in the morning, and then hit the trail. I’m fat, and my pack weights a ton.  I’m gonna hike shelter to shelter from here to Delaware Water Gap. Hope to get there by next Friday.

Saturday, March 7—Ecksville Shelter.
Woke up this morning around 1:30 AM and thought I saw something that wasn’t there when I went to sleep, but I decided to ignored it. Then when I was taking a piss off the front of the shelter, I looked to my right and saw three full sleeping bags. The thing I ignored in the shelter was one of their packs. Turned out to be three women and a dog. I was packed up by 7:30 AM and off I went. Made it up to Pulpit Rock fairly quickly and stayed a while. Took some photos, and meditated. When I start to get chilled, I hiked to the Pinnacle, and explored a cave, climbed some rocks, meditated again and then what some birds soar by. I am at peace. Finally, I got the feeling that I should go. Within twenty minutes of hiking after I left I must the past 30 or 40 day hikers. I felt like I was in the Whites ‘cause of all the people. I only stopped at Cold Spring to fill up with water, and made it to the shelter by a quarter after noon. I called it a day ‘cause my knee hurt. So here I am, and the three girls and the dog just showed up. I wonder, “will there be more?”

Sunday, March 8—Allentown Shelter.
Short day in the rain. 8.5 miles in three hours. Almost unbelievable, considering a thousand foot climb, and lots of rocks, wet rocks. Lazee wasn’t all that friendly, oh well. Must call Homebrew to see if he’s having another Saint Patrick’s Day party. Rain tomorrow.

Tuesday, March 10—Bake Oven Knob Shelter.
Didn’t hike yesterday. Raining, but by mid-afternoon it stopped and became warm. Then at night, 7:00 PM, what a light show. Lightning and an intermittent moon, and then it poured. It was fun, not scary, like at Little Bigelow Shelter. Bummed around this morning, hoping to hit the restaurants at Blue Mountain Summit, but it was closed Mondays, Tuesdays, and Wednesdays. That sucks. Some sun for a little bit today. Windy. The cliffs and the trail near Bear Rocks was hard. My knee didn’t like it and it meant it. Supposed to be cold tonight, and for the next couple of days. Where’s spring going?

Thursday, March 12—Leroy A. Smith Shelter.
Yesterday was my favorite section of Pennsylvania. An open ridge. It was but a high despite the wind. Stayed at Fine’s Lodging in Slatington last night. Ira Fine is a cross between Jackie Mason and Pat Cooper in looks. His wife, Fran Fine, I only met briefly. I ate a whole medium white pizza with sausage and meatballs. When to Kurt’s Korner for a few beers last night and for breakfast this morning. Today was super windy plus the trail was a wasteland of rocks, hardly any trees, and steep. Coldest days hike since I’ve been back from New Jersey. I think I’m going to Wind Gap tomorrow.

Tuesday, March 17— Kirkridge Shelter.
Friday’s hike was uneventful until I got near PA 33. I was watching the rock so closely that I lost the AT. Met a guy hiking on a gravel trail to look for fossils, and gave me a ride into town. My knee was swelling, so I pigged-out and rested all weekend. Moved to the Gateway Motel yesterday. I’m too fat to climb easily out of Wind Gap this morning. Rocky trail this afternoon. Got to the shelter and met a guy going to go hang gliding, so I went with him to watch. A bunch of cool guys there. One guy asked if I like the idea of them doing this here. I replied that I liked it better than the antennas to the shelter, and then added that they enjoy nature their way. Was asked if I wanted to try it, and all I could see is landing on my knee, so I lamely declined. Hope it ain’t raining in the morning.

Kurtis Kirsch.
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